In The Shadow of Glenmalure , Wicklow , Ireland

 

Glenmalure is the longest glaciated valley in Ireland.  Thousands of years ago, when Ireland was covered in ice – a vast sheet of ice gouged a gash through the Wicklow Mountains. It’s a wild, lonely and stunningly beautiful place. It has a history of rebellion and was the scene of a famous Irish victory over the English in 1580 when the clansmen of the O’Byrne’s and their allies defeated a much larger invading English force, luring them into the valley and then coming down off the boulder strewn sides of the valley with bloody intent. The battle is commemorated in the lyrics of the song ‘Follow Me Up to Carlow’.

The head of the valley lies in the shadow of Lugnaquilla, the highest mountain in Wicklow and the highest point in Ireland outside of Kerry. Walking or hiking one of the trails out of the valley, it’s hard to believe that the city of Dublin is only a little over 40 kilometres to the north. The landscape is wild and inhospitable. The few sheep farmers who make a living in the valley work hard to keep their flocks healthy in such a challenging environment. Whilst snow is a rare enough visitor to our shores, the height and eastern facing aspect of the glen means that the surrounding mountains and Lugnaquilla in particular hold snow for longer than anywhere else in Ireland. For visitors, the surrounding roads such as the Sally Gap and Wicklow Gap are impassable each year for at least a few days.

From the head of the glen overlooking the Avonbeg River, the landscape is spectacularly beautiful. Mountains and forests stretch as far as the eye can see and there is little in the way of human habitation. The sheer sides of the glen are scattered with vast rocks and Carrawaystick Brook falls over the cliffs – a long turf brown and white streak of cascading water – the volume of which depends very much on the amount of rain up on the surrounding summits. Dramatist JM Synge was a regular visitor to the region and based the play In The Shadow of The Glenon the area. Literary associations are also strengthened by the memory of Maud Gonne McBride who owned the house 6km up the glen from Drumgoff – now an An Oige Hostel.

Glenmalure also contains an old British military barracks at Drumgoff, one of several dotted along the Military Road which was built by the British following the 1798 Rebellion. The road stretches from the Dublin suburbs over the heather clad mountains – terminating in the beautiful valley of Aughavannagh, a short distance over the mountains from Glenmalure.

Wicklow and Glenmalure in particular is synonymous with Michael Dwyer, rebel leader of the 1798 Rising in Wicklow. There is a large granite memorial to the famous rising ‘Governor of Glenmalure’ near Drumgoff. After many years fighting the British, Dwyer was eventually transported to Australia where he died in 1825. There are a number of photographs of his Sydney grave in the pub in at the crossroads where the Military Road tumbles over the hills from Laragh.

The landscape gives an indication of why rebellion was such a feature of the area over the centuries. High, heavily forested mountains, glens ending in cul de sacs of sheer granite, and fast flowing rivers with few fording points all combined to make it a difficult region to subdue. Even today, with so few roads in or out of the mountains, it’s no surprise that the Irish retreated to the area as the growing English presence in the Pale displaced them during the Elizabethan period in particular.

Today, all is peaceful. The area is a hikers and walkers paradise, and despite the relative proximity of our capital city it’s easy to find yourself as the only walkers on the trail. Glenmalure is a favourite starting point for climbing Lugnaquilla and a visit to the Glen will reward anyone who loves the Irish landscape – no matter how active or genteel your outdoor pursuits may be.

David Deighan

www.holidaywicklow.com

 

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Hi everyone ,

Our website is now live thanks to the hardwork of Eoin O Sullivan , we have a way to go with it but would love you to subscribe to be kept up to date about new additions.

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Grainne Sherlock ( admin )

 

086 2119326

Pictures of West Cork

Thank you to Ger @ Taken By Titch  for these wonderful pictures of West Cork , Ireland .

Visit Gers Facebook  page by clicking on the link.

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Laharn Cross ,Cork , Ireland

Here is a little video snippet of what to expect on a warm Sunday evening if you venture to Laharn Cross , Cork , Ireland for a bit of Craic agus Ceol ( music & fun ) .

Walled Towns in Ireland :

Walled Towns In Ireland are a wonderful part  of our history and heritage and its only recently that I am coming to appreciate the beauty and history of such walled towns.

I am especially taking notice of the walled towns near me here in North Cork , two of those being , Buttevant and Killmallock as this is the Birthplace of my father and grandparents . I want to highlight these two and also to highlight the special event taking place in Buttevant to celebrate this walled town this Summer it may be of interest to you to attend this event if you are visiting the area.

BUTTEVANT :  Walled town event June 17th 2012 

“ Anyone in Cork on 17th June might be interested in coming along to Buttevant Walled Town Day  which will be held in Buttevant Castle Grounds which dates back to the 13th Century. This is our 2nd annual festival to celebrate our inclusion in the Irish Walled Town Network and will incorparate all things Medieval with activities and spectacles to appeal the all the family and history lovers. For further information check out our Facebook Page “Buttevant Walled Town Day”.

Information curtest of Wiki …  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Buttevant

Buttevant (Irish: Cill na Mullach or Ecclesia Tumulorum in the Latin) is a medieval market town, incorporated by charter of Edward III, situated in North County Cork, Ireland.

While there may be reason to suggest that the town may occupy the site of an earlier settlement of the Donegans, Carrig Donegan, the origins of the present town are clearly and distinctly Norman, and closely connected with the settlement of the Barrys from the 13th century.^[6] Here they built their principal stronghold in North Cork.

Buttevant is located on the N20 road between Limerick and Cork and the R522 regional road. The Dublin–Cork railway line passes by the town, but the station, from which at the outbreak of World War I in 1914, newly raised battalions of the Royal Munster Fusiliers and the Royal Dublin Fusiliers who had completed their training at the local military barracks, set out for the Western Front.

Killmallock :

When you visit the walled town event in Buttevant its only a short spin further down the road to Killmallock and well worth the visit , I may be bias but I believe that Killmallock is a beautiful historic and pretty town that is often over looked by tourists visiting the area.

For more indept information on Killmallock pls visit

http://www.kilmallockonline.com

Killmallock and Buttevant are ideal stop offs on your visit to Ireland , if you are looking for accomodation in the area I would recommend  http://www.springfort-hall.com/ which only approx ten mins from Buttevant and approx 30 mins from Killmallock .

For something closer to the Limerick side of Buttevant and Killmallock I would recommend Deebert House Hotel 

Other areas to visit while visting and close by are , Liscarroll and in particular the Donkey Sanctuary  which is wonderful place to bring the kids , Churchtown is a lovely pretty village worth a visit and also close by for more information click on the link.

I hope you have found this Blogpost interesting and helpful comments welcome.

Grainne

Following the light. By Johnny Cash

Following the light.

Lake Muskery

People often ask me what I do for a living and I feel like saying I chase and try to capture light. I would not be telling lies because as photographers that is exactly what we do. I am fortunate enough to live almost on the banks of the river suir, looking right across at theGaltee mountains. One Day last week I had just finished writing something when I looked out my sitting room window, shafts of light were streaming through the clouds and lighting the mountains like spotlights. It was amazing and as often as I see these light shows in Ireland they never loose their magic. I dropped everything hopped in my car and proceeded to chase the light, heading towards Bansha and from there on to Rossadrehid, I was heading for Lake Muskery. No matter what time of year you visit the Galtees, their beauty will blow you away but you should always treat these mountains with respect. The one thing you should remember is how quickly weather conditions can change and while as mountains go our ranges may not be considered very high, they can still be very dangerous. I had left instructions where I was going and what time I expected to be back etc. I love the walk up through the wooded areas following the road way as you get higher you realise the stillness and tranquility of your surroundings, sometimes interrupted by the bleating of sheep. With a couple of nice streams along the way to add to the scene there are great photo ops. A little further on you climb the stile and from this point on you appreciate having good walking boots as the going gets a little rough. It is an incredible walk to the lake, the beautiful Galteemountains rising up around you, you would want to be dead not to appreciate its beauty. Before you come to the lake you pass a couple of more streams which all add to this wonderful seen. However the real scene is to see Lake Muskery set back into the mountain, as light dances across the water, putting on another show for you it feels like another world. I find it hard to drag myself away from the lake, but I am conscious that the light is fading fast. No one wants to get caught on the mountain at this time of year, especially without the proper camping equipment. If you feel however that walking in the Galtees is a little bit strenuous then this area has pleanty more to offer. You can do the Glen of Aherlow drive stoping to enjoy the great veiws of the Galtee mountains. There are many historic and holy sites, St. Pecauns holy well, St. Berriherts well and kyle, St. sednas well situated at Clonbeg church and Moore abbey which was built around 1204 by Donough O’ Brien King of Thomond. The bottom line wheather you are interested in photography, hill walking or just a nice day out this area of Tipperary has a huge amount to offer.

About : JOHNNY CASH.

IRELAND Photographer based in Tipperary,Ireland. Has travelled to many countries but always turns his camera back to the beauty of Ireland.Contact 085/1372068. johncashgip@gmail.com

https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100000795892343

North Cork Local Gems : by Grainne Sherlock

I would like to share with you a few of the little gems that I love locally to me here in North Cork .

Doneraille Park :

Having spent a wonderful sunny Sunday afternoon strolling around the vast landscapes of Doneraille Park  I definately would recommend it as a stop on your visit to the area. A little information on the Park the questions people have asked .

The main attraction for me personally were the herds of Deer on the site , The Park has a herd of three types of Deer ,  Red, Fallow and Sika. These can be viewed in easily on your stroll around .

Does the park have facilities : At present the Park has childrens play area and ample parking for customers , (it is Free to enter the Park and parking is also Free ).

A childrens play area with swings etc is located near to the entrance to the park , there are also areas for people to picnic , at present and as far as I know there is now cafe or coffee shop in the Park.

There are  toilet facilites on site .

If you are looking for a bit of execise in a tranquil and scenic place in North Cork then I would highly recommend it .

For more detailed information click on the link above . Hope this helps you .

Second on my list is:

Ballyhass Lakes :

Ballyhass Lakes

Ballyhass Lakes and Holiday homes and activity centre  is located approx 10 km from Mallow and is situated just outside of the Village of Cecilstown , It boasts two stocked fishing lakes for more information on the facilities and rates for 2012 please use this link . Ballyhass Lakes .

Fishing Lake Photo by Grainne Sherlock

If you are looking for a Ireland Holiday with a combination of relaxation and activities then this facility is a must for your to do list .

Lastly on my list for the moment is :

The Secret Garden 

Photo by ; Grainne Sherlock

The Secret Garden in Newmarket , Co. Cork .

“ The Secret Garden Centre is a family run business that was established in 1996 by the previous owners. The current owners Sarah and Brian took over in May 2002.  ”

It is located between the towns of Kanturk and Newmarket and is signposted from the main road.

I can assure you that you will not want to miss a trip here if you are in the North Cork area over the Summer . Even if you arent able to buy plants or flowers , this garden centre is just magical in my opinion .

The Tea Room  : a place to sit in tranquil peace indoors or outdoors weather permitting  and enjoy tea , fresh local produce , served in the prettiest surroundings in North Cork .

” While in the tea room why not browse through our select garden and home gifts and locally made crafts including soy candles, jewellery, stained glass and many more gorgeous items. “

The Charm for me in Secret Garden along with it being a top class garden centre with experts advice on hand , there are also some quirky and almost in my opinion Alice in Wonderland features to the centre from a fairies house and I am almost sure i could hear them speaking , to the toadstool wooden features in the garden .

” woodent toadstool feature “

I hope I have done justice to these wonderful attractions but I suppose the only way to find out this is for you as the tourist to visit them and report back to me . !

If you need any help planning your stay in North Cork then feel free to contact me :

I welcome your comments too

Phone : Grainne 00353 86 2119326

Email : grainneunknownireland@gmail.com

The Hidden Ring By Christy Jackson Nicholas

The Hidden Ring – Ring of Beara

The Ring of Beara isn’t exactly hidden – you can, of course, see it plain as day on any map.  But, since the roads aren’t always very wide, the tour busses don’t go there, and therefore it doesn’t get nearly the amount of tourist traffic as the Ring of Kerry, or even the Dingle Peninsula.  However, this is a good thing – you get to see a bit more of the real rural Ireland, and less of the touristy tat that springs up wherever busses belch their passengers for a quick photo opportunity and an overpriced bowl of Irish stew.

Kenmare is an excellent base for exploring the rings, and we stayed at O’Donnabhain’s, right on the main street.  Gerry and Vanessa run the gastropub and the B&B above, and we had a delightful stay there.  It’s a large Victorian house (much larger than it seems from the storefront) that has large, clean rooms and wonderful food.  They also have some self-catering lodges to rent in Kenmare.

As you drive along the Ring of Beara, you will notice that it is wilder and less ‘easy’ to get to places than the Ring of Kerry.  However, it is well worth the effort.  This lonely, lumpy, alien and unkempt wilderness, dotted with rough fishing villages and rocky shores was a delightful change.  Even though our day was rather damp and dreary, and punctuated by fairly frequent but misty rainfall, the landscape shone as a beacon to our further travels.

Our first major stop was Gleninchaquin.  We drove the rather scary road into it, and discovered a sign for Uragh Stone Circle, situated in the sweeping glen with waterfalls and mountains around it.  What a breathtaking stop!  There is a courtesy box by the car park, and another sign indicating other nearby sites.

Uragh Stone Circle

A bit farther down the road, we saw a sign for Castlecreevy Stone Circle.  The path was through a lovely, deep, dark and mossy forest, and up a fairly steep hill.  We saw a deer that didn’t seem particularly shy of us.  Keep going, all the way to the top, past the tree line, and you will eventually find, not one, but two stone circles, right next to each other, and a spectacular view of the landscape around you.

Be warned – the roads are very narrow along this Ring, and often it is only one lane.  Pay attention to the laybys so you can pass oncoming cars.  The convention is that the person coming uphill should back up, as it is much easier to back up downhill.

Continuing on around the circle, we came to Ardgroom, and then Eyeries, which, like many of the villages along this Ring, boast brightly painted buildings throughout the village.

Eyeries

You can find random hidden shrines, tucked away by the side of the road, or ogham stones in a farmer’s back yard.  This shrine was, I believe, somewhat after Ardgroom, and many of them are similarly elaborately created tableaus.

If you have a taste for Neolithic stone circles, wayside shrines, charming, colorful villages, and karstic landscape, you will not be disappointed by a day spent in the Ring of Beara.  I do hope you have better weather than us, but it is stunning in any weather.  The Ring of Beara was a delightful exploration of this southwestern edge of the Emerald Isle, and I look forward to exploring it more on my next trip.  

Written By Christy Jackson Nicholas

Picture This ! . By Johnny Cash

As a photographer I have been fortunate to exhibit my work on a couple of occasions in the USA, in London & around Ireland. On nearly every occasion while outside the country a few people would at some stage lament that Ireland had changed so much. You would hear people say that The Celtic Tiger had changed us here, we were no longer quiet as friendly, we were to busy making money & having a good time ourselves to be worrying if the visitor was having a good time. The old Ireland was dead & gone being replaced by a strange beast which few visitors who would have heard stories of Ireland could recognize.

While I felt myself agreeing to a certain extent, I found it hard to agree one hundred percent with this sentiment. Yes Ireland had changed for many beyond recognition, but there were still pockets & areas in every county where a little bit of the old Irish magic can be found. Having been fortunate to travel the 32 counties to create my images of Ireland I can tell you that we still have it in spades. Ireland is a photographers paradise & in turn paradise for the visitor. The problem is that many Irish people have not recognised this themselves, very often we think that tourists are looking for the exotic when nothing could be further from the truth. How often would the local  B& B owner think to inform the tourist that the local team are playing hurling or football that evening. Do we presume the visitor will only be interested in the big castle which might be many miles away & forget to share the local history, which might prove just as interesting. I know which I prefer & in my experience in talking to tourists I know the majority prefer the more personal touch. It is fantastic to visit the large historical sites around the country, but when people return home & they are asked what was their highlight I bet you it will involve a more one to one interaction. Each year I visit some of the horse fairs around the country, I imagine how excited I would be if I was a visitor to Ireland & I happened along these scenes. I visit the bog to photograph people saving the turf, I visit small rural marts to capture scenes that have not changed an awful lot in the last thirty years. But I also turn my camera to the more modern, we now have may wonderful festivals which celebrate multi-culturist society. Ireland has changed we cannot deny that, but it is still a welcoming country with a wealth of things to do for the visitor.

If you are visiting Ireland soon or planning a trip in the future I promise you will not be disappointed. Do not be afraid to talk to locals in an area they will respond & try to help, at least that has been my experience. You see very often I am the visitor to an area & the only way I can discover the hidden gem is to ask the questions. There is a hidden Ireland, there is an old Ireland & there is a modern vibrant Ireland. In my experience they can all fit comfortably together on this beautiful Emerald Isle, if you can picture it.

Special thanks again to Johnny Cash for this informative post . Please feel free to leave a comment or ask for information about Ireland.

Johnny Cash , Golden Irish Photography .

Find Johnny on Facebook .

Breathtaking Antrim By Christy Nicholas

While about 6 million people visit Ireland every year, the majority go to the Republic of Ireland.  Years of reports of the Troubles in Northern Ireland has kept it off the tourism radar.  However, with the Good Friday Agreement of 1998, the protests have moved from the streets and into the political arena, and the wonders of the Antrim Coast are available to all once again.

This was my first visit to Northern Ireland, but it will definitely not be my last.  My flight into Belfast was efficient and I was quickly processed and in my rental car via Dan Dooley before I realized it.  We drove up the coast from Belfast and to our destination for the next three nights.  This area is surrounded by the Glens of Antrim, a set of nine different glens, each one with unique views and moods.  We explored several of them while we were there, but a couple spots stood out as special and sublime.  And the Antrim Coast itself is worth the visit to this edge of the island.

Now, most people in this area will go to the ‘big three’, or the Giant’s Causeway, Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, and Bushmill’s Distillery.  These places are definitely worth a visit – they are spectacular!  The coastline at the Rope Bridge is one of my favorite spots in Ireland now.  However, there are lots of articles written on these places, so I’ll concentrate on the other places.

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Coast :

Carrickfergus:

On our way up I had to stop at Carrickfergus, as I’ve long been enchanted by the song.  The castle was our first castle on this trip, an imposing and solid construction looking out to the sea and Scotland beyond.  We arrived just as a horde of schoolchildren were leaving, so we had a blessedly quiet and uninterrupted exploration.Larne Cemetery:
I have a great respect and love for cemeteries, especially those with beautiful crosses and angel statues.  There is a serene place in Larne, along the coast, which has a cemetery nestled between the hill and the sea.  In May, the yellow broom was dusting the hill with butter.

Larne Cemetery

Cushendall:
Cushendall is a coastal town about halfway up the northeast coast, a cozy place with one main street and a fantastic coastal walk.  We stayed at the Riverside B&B (http://www.theriversidebandb.com) which is on the main street through town, and a half block from pubs, the grocery store, the church, and several decent restaurants.  And, as the name suggests, the river runs behind it.  The décor is modern and clean, the rooms are lovely, and the sitting room cozy and warm.  The host, Pat McKeegan, is a true hidden gem of Ireland – a former merchant marine who now runs the harbour, he was full of great information on places to explore in the region.Johnny Joe’s:
This is a pub on the main street in Cushendall.  During the day it’s a fairly quiet gastropub with wonderful food and a gently stylish décor.  During the evening, however, the little rooms each have a different set of musicians, social groups, and conversations going, so you are never bored.  It was standing room only the two nights we went, and we heard everything from 80’s rock to Irish trad in the different rooms.

The Half Door:
This is a little take-away place that serves the ubiquitous fish-n-chips, curries, and burgers.  We had the best chicken curry I’ve ever had from here – yum!

Layd Church and Cushendall Coastal Walk:
Even on a rainy day, this is worth a trip.  You can walk up from the town centre and explore the church, which has an ancient keyhole cross and a high cross, and then the half mile or so of coastal walk.  There is a convenient boardwalk path along it so you can see the commanding views of the coastline on the opposite shore of the inlet.

Torr Scenic Road/Torr Head/Fair Head:
This is one of those places that must be seen rather than described.  So I’ve included a few photos of my trip along this northeast ‘corner’ of Ireland.

Glenaan Scenic Route:
This drive put me in mind of the highlands of Scotland – a sweeping valley of peaty hillsides, dotted with sheep and the occasional farmhouse.

Glenariff Forest:
This was our favorite day in this area.  While it was raining, we took about a two mile hike through the Glenariff Forest.  We found at least a dozen strong waterfalls, and the path took us through mossy jungles, fern covered glades, and babbling brooks.  The café at the entrance/exit was an excellent spot to stop for some warm soup after the damp day, though it had a bit more of the impersonal hotel feel than a cozy B&B feel.

Glenarm Castle:
The main draw here is the castle gardens, a set of formal gardens set up in several courtyards.  While in early May the flowers were not yet in full bloom, there were still plenty on offer.  There were decorative hedges, fountains and pools, and an odd spiral hill that you could climb, and survey the whole garden from the top.

Dunluce Castle:
This spectacular ruin on the edge of the coastal route is definitely worth some exploration.  Part of it fell into the sea during a dinner party in the 16th century, prompting a quick move inland.

The Dark Hedges:

On our way out of the area, we stopped in Armoy, and found this road nearby.  This is definitely worth a stop!  Beech trees line this path and make a very haunting, dramatic scene along the entrance to this former manor house.

 Antrim is a spectacular place, no matter if you prefer breathtaking sea views, spooky drives, sweeping landscapes, or historical marvels.  The towns and villages are charming and welcoming, and are well worth some time from your trip.

Christy Nicholas
www.greendragonartist.com